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SNAILS ARE SLIDING ONTO RESTAURANT MENUS IN EXCITING NEW FORMS. IS TRADITIONAL FREN
Fred de Fossard
Felipe Fernández-Armesto longs to dine offaly well
From prawn cocktail and Arctic roll to starched tablecloths and ‘nicotine cream’ on the walls, it’s out with the new and in with the old in the restaurant world, says David Ellis
Once the preserve of oligarchs, caviar now turns up on chicken nuggets. What’s behind its comeback, wonders Henrik Lischke
Best seat in the house?
Slippers have made their way out of the bedroom and into the street, finds Simon Mills–although not without precedent or formalities