Writers and chefs share their favourite meat-free go-tos
interviews TONY NAYLOR
voices
Vegetable biryani
“Biryani is perfect for large gatherings: easy to scale up, flavourful, hearty enough to fill the hungriest guest and versatile, enough that you can use any veg. It’s the big one-pot method, for me – ginger, garlic and curry leaves fried in oil, veg in, then plenty of garam masala, black pepper and salt. While cooking the vegetables, boil your rice until nearly done (it should have some bite). Mix the rice through with lime juice and coriander, and give it 10 minutes more. Delicious!” Resh Sonchhatla, co-owner, Chapati Club, London
Brown stew oyster mushrooms
“I’m constantly creating meat-free versions of Jamaican dishes I grew-up eating, such as brown stew chicken. I marinate oyster mushrooms for two hours with a plethora of ingredients including scotch bonnet, pimento and all-purpose seasoning, then add them to the stew with plantain and cassava dumplings. Instead of rice and peas, I serve it on luxuriously smooth, creamy mash, made with coconut milk, olive oil and vegan butter.” Nathan Collymore, head chef, Jam Delish, London
Snazzy seasonal lasagne
“In winter, I play around with greens in lasagne, or that ace combo, squash and sage. Roast diced squash with garlic and blend with herbs (rosemary, thyme, sage), and paprika, chilli or walnuts to create a creamy, well-seasoned almost purée. Next, fry crumbled tempeh or firm tofu with soy sauce, garlic, onion and vegetable stock powder until crispy to make a ‘meaty’ mince substitute. Layer the pasta, squash and tofu, and pour over vegan béchamel. Top with fried sage and more nutrtional yeast for crunch.” Meriel Armitage, chef-founder, Club Mexicana, London
Sharing soufflé
“My mum’s soufflé was born on Boxing Day 1974, when, after a pastry mishap, she turned a quiche mix into a soufflé topped with cheese and crispy onions. To accompany it, pastry remnants were filled with cheeseboard leftovers. It sounds like a car crash but it was delicious!” Amanda Powley, co-founder, Terre à Terre, Brighton
Squash wellington
“A delicious dinner party dish: halve a butternut squash lengthways and trim it to a consistent shape. Rub the squash with oil, sal
