Spf

3 min read

Don’t deprive skin of this all-important daily defence. It’s the single most important step in any skincare routine.

Words: Ellie Smith

The only true anti-ageing ingredient, sunscreen helps protect against both sunburn and skin cancer, as well as sun-induced skin ageing (also known as photoaging). While high-tech devices and potent products can help to reverse sun damage, only SPF can prevent it from taking place. For this reason, failing to apply sun cream in favour of layering on moisturisers, masks and must-have serums is equivalent to flossing teeth but failing to brush them. We miss the most important step and our skin suffers. Here, we debunk common sun-care myths and share dermatologist-approved tips for nailing this face fundamental.

Why is sunlight damaging to skin?

Not all sunlight is damaging. About 50% of the sun’s rays are infrared (we experience this as heat), 40% are visible light rays and the remaining 10% are ultraviolet (UV) radiation. UV radiation can be broken down into two broad categories – UVA and UVB – and it’s these rays that pose problems for our complexion.

UVB radiation wreaks havoc on the surface of skin. It’s these rays that cause sunburn (by damaging DNA in our skin cells) and play the greatest role in skin cancer development. By contrast, UVA rays have a longer wavelength and can penetrate past the epidermis and deep into the dermis, where they contribute to skin ageing. Think B for burn, A for ageing. This is why it’s so important to look for broad-spectrum sun protection if youthful-looking skin is important to us. The sun protection factor (SPF) listed on labels only refers to UVB protection.

What does sun exposure do to skin?

‘In addition to skin cancer risk, prolonged sun exposure can lead to premature ageing because it breaks down collagen,’ says consultant dermatologist Dr Adam Friedman (stratumclinics.com). ‘Collagen is the underlying elastic support tissue that gives skin its strength, smoothness and elasticity. Over time, sun damage causes these collagen strands to shrink, become thinner and break down. This can make the skin appear wrinkled, have less elasticity, and feel dry and itchy,’ he explains.

UV damage can also cause spots of hyperpigmentation – commonly referred to as age or sun spots – and trigger the larger patches of pigmentation known as melasma. ‘The exact cause of melasma is not fully known but it’s thought melanocytes, the pigment producing cells in skin, produce too much pigment in certain areas,’ says Dr Friedman. ‘This can appear anywhere on the body, but most commonly on the face when exposed to the sun.

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