RECIPE JOURNAL
THE STAR OF NUMEROUS EASTER DISHES, LAMB IS SUCCULENT AND VERSATILE, AS DELICIOUS PAN-FRIED OR GRILLED AS IT IS COOKED IN AN OVEN, ON A BARBECUE OR EVEN OVER A PIT.
Whether in the form of a crisp, golden Barnsley chop with minted potatoes or served salted and dried alongside flatbread and sour cream, the flavoursome meat of the stocky, woolly sheep is eaten all over the world. Most often, this means lamb, but in countries with extensive sheep farming traditions, both hogget (from sheep aged one to two years) and mutton (from older sheep) are also enjoyed for their complex depth of flavour acquired from a longer time grazing on pastures.
Across much of Europe, the meat is treated simply: in France, lamb tends to be cooked slowly with seasonal vegetables, while in some Romanian pastoral communities, mutton is boiled with sheep lard and onions and preserved in clay pots. However, lamb can also hold its own against punchy flavours, as evidenced in Iranian stews simmered with walnuts and pomegranate molasses, and in Moroccan tagines made with preserved lemons.
In many cultures, lamb is considered a symbol of spring and sacrifice — and the meat plays a central role in Easter celebrations. The roots of the traditional roast lamb dinner are thought to lie in early Passover rituals; other lamb dishes served on the holiday include Greek magiritsa (soup made with lamb offal and greens), eaten to break Lenten fasting.
Lamb cuts differ considerably in flavour, texture and price, making the meat suitable for braising, roasting, pan-frying or grilling. Versatile leg lends itself equally well to roasting whole as to cutting into chunks for shashlik (skewered, grilled meat). Minced lamb is great in everything from moussaka to keema naan. For slowcooking, choose tough, fatty cuts such as expensive shoulder or cheaper shank; for quick-cook meals, opt for leaner pieces like chops and cutlets. The following recipes use a variety of cuts and are guaranteed to have family and friends flocking to your table.
This Greek dish originated in Turkey, where it’s known as yoğurtlu kebap (‘kebab with yoghurt’). Served atop warm flatbreads, these minced lamb kebabs can be dressed with the tomato sauce and yoghurt or served alongside them for dipping. Use fatty meat and rest the seasoned lamb well after kneading to help it cling to the skewers. The kebabs can be prepared in advance and refrigerated, separated by baking paper to stop them sticking together —just ensure the meat is firmly on the skewers before cooking.
Giaourtlou by Saghar Satareh
SERVES: 4-6 TAKES: 45 MINS
INGREDIENTS FOR THE KEBABS 500g minced lamb 1 small onion, or ½large one, grated 1 handful of chopped parsley 1 garlic clove, grat
