MASTER THE CLASSICS
NEW FOOD SERIES
A recipe full of history, chicken soup – or Jewish penicillin to many – is a great recipe to have to hand for when you’re feeling under the weather, down in the dumps or the family need a pick-us-up meal
‘Medical research shows that chicken soup, more than any other hot liquid, helps the body rid itself of the cold virus due to its nutritional properties’
When it comes to a bout of the lurgy, Lemsip and a weekend huddled in bed play their roles, but nothing hits the spot quite like a warming bowl of chicken soup. And I’m not talking tinned here. This is the kind that’s an economical labour of love, simmered for hours, and delivered with the promise of healing a cold, heartbreak and anything in between.
Jewish cuisine has its fair share of comfort food, but none seems to have quite earned its place at Friday night Shabbat like a golden bowl of chicken soup. And just like the differing personalities you’ll find around the table, the choice of ingredients can vary too. Whole chicken or pieces? To herb or not to herb? Noodles, matzo balls, both… or neither? Confusing, maybe, but a chat with Limor Chen – chef, restaurateur and author of My Tel Aviv Table: A Journey of Flavours and Aromas from a Sun-soaked City (Nourish Books, £28) – reveals that the recipe can differ largely depending on your Jewish heritage. ‘My mother is Ashkenazi, my father Sephardic, and being a child of mixed parentage, I learned different ways to make chicken soup. The Ashkenazi, Eastern European style is the more basic version with staples such as chicken, carrots, onion and celery included, sometimes served ‘clear’. My father, on the other hand, would add lots of herbs like dill and coriander and spices like turmeric and cumin,’ says Limor.
My version, after lots of research, heads down a classic route. The core element is the stock, so good-quality chicken is key. Everything else is cheap and cheerful or from the storecupboard, so the fowl is not the place to be frugal. Kosher would be authentic, but an organic or free-range bird will work too, with some extra wings thrown in to give your broth body.
According to my sources, carrot, celery and onion are essential, especially simmering them from the start for maximum flavour. I’ve added matzo balls too, though they’re typically included during Passover. If you’re looking for comfort and joy in a bowl, what brings that more than finding these buoyant balls (also known as kneidlach) in your soup? However, I follow recipe writer and food stylist Emanuelle Lee’s advice and cook them separately, avoiding a much frowned upon cloudy broth.
Ultimately, this recipe is best when given some extra time and attention. I can’t promise it will impress every bubala, but if the aim is to heal, it’ll do just t
