Home sewing should be about making a pattern fit your own unique shape, whatever that may be. Learning how to select the right starting size – and what to pay attention to when you are selecting your size – is a great starting point. After that there are different things that you can check to see what changes you might anticipate.
The size charts in this book are based on a height of 1.65–1.7 m (5 ft 5 in.–5 ft 7 in.) and a B cup for women and a height of 1.73–1.8 m (5 ft 8 in.–5 ft 11 in.) for men.
TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS
The three measurements used by pattern companies in their size descriptions are bust/chest, waist and hip. You will find two measurement charts on a commercial sewing pattern: one is the body measurements table (BMT) and the other is the finished garment measurements table (FGMT). The BMT tells you that the garment is designed to fit someone with those measurements. It says something about the overall size and shape of person that the pattern is designed for, but nothing about the pattern itself. A pattern made to your body measurements would produce some kind of form-fitting bodysuit with no room to breathe or move, which is not very useful!
The FGMT, on the other hand, indicates the bust, waist and hip of the completed garment, which can tell you a little bit about the style of it. The more form-fitting the design of a garment, the smaller the difference between the BMT and the FGMT. A loose-fitting garment will have a much bigger difference between the two.
Ready to measure?
Start by taking your own bust (high and full), waist and hip measurements (or those of the person you’re making the garment for) and make a note of them. Then you can compare them with the BMT of any pattern you’re making to work out what size you are closest to.
º Wear your regular underwear and measure over this.
The measuring tape should be taut but not tight.
º Stand up straight to get accurate measurements. º Don’t twist the measuring tape!
º Check that the measuring tape is level around your body by looking sideways in a mirror.
COMPARING YOUR MEASUREMENTS AGAINST THE PAPER PATTERN
You can fine-tune things by comparing your measurements against key areas on the paper pattern. If you know in advance that you are a different size than the pattern allows for in certain areas, you can anticipate what adjustments you may need to make.
First, make sure you understand the type of pattern you are ma
