For a walk which visits quiet hills and explores post-industrial dereliction, Eryri ’s Moelwyns are second to none.

Jim Perrin revisits a minor but notable hill of the Rhinogydd, in the fine company of campaigning photographer Fay Godwin and archaeologist Peter Crew

When the weather gods deem the mountains of North Wales inclement, there’s a group of hills nearby that nearly always defy the order from on-high. The Llyn Peninsula’s Yr Eifl, is a case of three for one, and all in half a day.

Tracing its way along the Welsh coast, there’s more to the A487 than meets the eye

14.5km / 9 miles / 5-5.5 hours Ascent 777m/2550ft

■ Distance: 9¼ miles/14.8km ■ Time: 4 hours ■ Grade: Moderate