JB Smith goes searching for solitude in the forested folds of the Rhinogs – and finds himself falling under the spell of Eryri/Snowdonia’s quieter side

When we visited Beddgelert last June, we left home in shorts and T-shirts following a heatwave across the UK. The sun was shining, and we were confident it would stay warm for the week ahead. So imagi

7 11.3km / 7 miles / 4.5 hours Ascent 680m/2231ft

Jim Perrin revisits an old haunt to reveal the real high point of the ‘White Barrier’ via Wales’ highest waterfall, a pair of ponies, pubs and ring ouzels thrown in for good measure

Yr Wyddfa/Snowdon 3559ft/1085m

It’s funny to recall, now that we are still in the grip of colder weather, but when we visited Beddgelert last June, we left home in shorts and T-shirts following a heatwave across the UK. The sun was