JB Smith goes searching for solitude in the forested folds of the Rhinogs – and finds himself falling under the spell of Eryri/Snowdonia’s quieter side

Jim Perrin revisits an old haunt to reveal the real high point of the ‘White Barrier’ via Wales’ highest waterfall, a pair of ponies, pubs and ring ouzels thrown in for good measure

7 11.3km / 7 miles / 4.5 hours Ascent 680m/2231ft

When we visited Beddgelert last June, we left home in shorts and T-shirts following a heatwave across the UK. The sun was shining, and we were confident it would stay warm for the week ahead. So imagi

2 10.8km / 6.7 miles / 8-9 hours Ascent 1224m/4016ft

5 15.6 km / 9.7 miles / 6 hours Ascent 1080m/3543ft