Skin deep
Is there anything more annoying than splashing out 50 of your hard-earned pounds on an eye cream only to find that, six weeks later, there’s been no real improvement? It’s a bugbear that often pops up with my patients, to which I ask, does it contain retinol?
Of all the skincare ingredients, retinol – a derivative of vitamin A – is the one active that really can do a Cher (it turns back time). Countless studies have shown it to be the gold-standard ingredient for targeting pigmentation and fine lines, while also boosting collagen production. Unlike acids, it’s able to bind itself to receptors within skin cells, revving up the production of new cells so much that the top layer sheds to reveal brighter, healthier skin beneath it. And herein lies retinol’s biggest strength and weakness: skin shedding can lead to major irritation. Apply retinol to an area that’s already sensitive, such as your eyes, and you’ll need to take a little extra care.
Your eyes are delicate for good reason; the skin is thinner here than it is across the rest of your face, has fewer oil-producing glands and a weaker moisture barrier. All of this makes it ripe for irritation and dryness if you’re slapdash with your retinol. But if used correctly, this ingredient is game-changing and can breathe new life into your weary-looking eyes.
First, if you’re using a retinol-laced face serum around your eyes, stop right now. Instead, stick with a retinol eye cream. These products tend to be gentler and contain slow-releasing or less potent forms, such as retinyl palmitate. They’ll also contain ingredients that can help to soothe and hydrate your delicate skin, reducing the risk of redness. Start with a low concentration and then work your way up slowly to avoid irritation, as it will give your skin time to adjust. That said, if your skin is sensitive, follow up with an extra layer of moisturiser to help hydrate and protect your skin barrier. You can begin by using retinyl palmitate three times a week before building up to daily use after a month.
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