Skin deep
Known as
THE EXPERT
skincare’s heavy hitters, acids have major appeal for one big reason: they deliver. Not only can they do a number on dullness, town on eradicating but they also go to acne scars, fine lines, breakouts and blackheads. The bad news? They can be notoriously difficult to use correctly.
First things first, count how many acids you’ve currently got on standby. While usage will depend on your skin type, using two to three different acids over the course of aweek is plenty –and you can achieve results with just one. Having more than three on the go, however, is a red flag – and something I wouldn’t recommend unless you’re an aesthetician or have a background in dermatology.
Second, you’ll know you’re using too many acids because your skin will tell you. Persistent redness, sensitivity and breakouts are all signs to stop applying them, along with changes to the texture of your skin. Those with darker skintones need to be particularly careful, as overuse of acids can lead to hyperpigmentation, uneven
texture and flakiness. Sensorial soreness or tingling are also signs that your skin’s balance is off, so break up with the idea that a tingling pain means it’s working. While a slight tingling sensation from a salicylic acid is to be expected, avoid anything that leaves skin red, sensitive or tingling significantly.
Correct acid application begins with understanding your skin. Sensitive? Try lactic acid for a very gentle AHA or aPHA acid – a cousin of AHA that exfoliates skin but doesn’t penetrate as deeply. Sensitive skin types should also choose a formula where the acid is temporarily on the skin, such as a cleanser or mask. If you do choose a serum, build up your use gradually if your skin is responding well. If fine lines and dullness are on the kill list, I’d recommend glycolic acid. Trying to tackle pigmentation? Go for mandelic acid. And if you have acne-prone or oily skin, opt for salicylic acid; it’s oil-soluble, meaning it’s the only acid that can infiltrate the pore lining and flush out dirt
