Albania

7 min read

Despite its political upheavals of the past, Albania is now a hotbed of producers keenly pursuing a wine revival. With its native Shesh grape varieties set to play a central role, the future for this lesser-known wine nation appears full of promise

In the district of Tepelenë, the view from Kantina Zika across its 1.4ha of vines, with the Vjosa river snaking down the valley to the left

With its roster of impressive indigenous grape varieties, a steady increase in vineyard plantings throughout many of its fabulous terroirrich regions and a growing number of highly talented, quality-focused winemakers, Albania is finally beginning to be recognised as an important – and distinctive – Balkan wine country.

Most other countries in the region have been enjoying a remarkable wine renaissance for several years already. But Albania, even with an ancient viticultural history similar to its neighbours – this dates back at least to the 8th century BC, when the Illyrians inhabited the Balkan peninsula – experienced enormous challenges during the second half of the 20th century.

At that time, under Albania’s highly repressive communist government, grape-growers were forced to hand over their harvests to state-owned factories which, in turn, produced massive quantities of low-quality wine. After the country’s political system collapsed and the free market economy was introduced in the early 1990s, thousands of its vineyards were abandoned, or even destroyed or converted for other agricultural purposes by new, private landowners with bitter memories of the old regime. Moreover, where grapes were still appreciated, they were used more for producing raki, the nation’s popular distillate (similar to Italy’s grappa).

The world’s growing fascination with wine and the flourishing wine industry in neighbouring Balkan countries have helped spawn Albania’s wine revival, leading to better-than-ever quality today. While forward-thinking oenologists and growers are a significant and increasingly widely travelled part of this, the absolute basis for Albania’s wine excellence today is, of course, provided by nature.

Ideal conditions

The country’s western coastline is washed by the Adriatic and Ionian seas, and its northern, eastern and southern borders meet neighbouring nations including North Macedonia and Greece (to the south), meaning that Albanian vineyards thrive under a beautiful combination of Mediterranean and continental climatic conditions. Warm sea breezes, foggy mornings, roasting-hot sunny days, very cool nights, summer rains, brisk mountain winds – they’re all here.

So are the ideal soils, ranging from sand, loess and clay to alluvial and limestone. And what’s planted in t