Discipline, technique, core values and distinctive ingredients… Classic French cuisine and kitchen protocol have their demands and rewards – and their impact is still felt around the world. How does it translate in today’s culinary landscape? Five chefs at the top of their game share their perspective
FOOD PHOTOGRAPHS INDIA WHILEY-MORTON FOOD STYLING EMILY GUSSIN INTERVIEWS KERRY FOWLER
The first dish I learned to cook was when I was 14: escalopes de veau à la normande, with mushrooms and cream. It was the only recipe I knew and I cooked it for the other children at the orphanage where I grew up (I lost my parents when I was little). At 16 I spent four years at cookery school, learning the basics. The cookbook we used was La Cuisine de Référence by Michel Maincent-Morel, and recently I saw that one of my apprentices is using the same book almost 30 years later!
French cuisine is important because it classifies cooking – it’s still very relevant and a reference in the world of gastronomy. What has changed is what you do with it, how you make it yours. I had 10 years of travelling the world with my work and it was great to discover new produce and techniques, to see how each country has their own style. But my cooking is rooted in France – it’s my life story.
Gregory Marchand’s roast duck breast with honey, sesame, orange and celeriac
Serves 2 Hands-on time 45 min Oven time 16-18 min
MAKE AHEAD
You can make the jus and the celeriac purée and wedges in advance, then reheat before serving.
• 2 duck breasts, at room temperature
• 2 tbsp runny honey
• Sesame seeds to sprinkle
• Rocket to serve
For the celeriac
• 1 celeriac
• 350ml orange juice
• 20g unsalted butter
• 1 thyme sprig
• 250-350ml whole milk
• 1 bay leaf
• Squeeze lemon juice
For the jus
• Finely grated zest and juice 1 large orange
• 1 tbsp orange marmalade
• 1 tbsp sugar
• 1 star anise
• Juice 1 lemon
1 Heat the oven to 210°C fan/gas 6½. Use a sharp knife to finely score the skin and fat on each duck breast diagonally (don’t cut through to the meat). Rub the honey into the skin on each breast, making sure it’s completely coated, then put on a baking tray.
2 Peel the celeriac and halve. Cut one half into 2cm thick wedges. Lay them flat in a large frying pan in a single layer, then pour over the orange juice and add the butter and thyme. Chop the other half into small cubes. Put in a saucepan, pour in enough milk to just cover them (the size of your pan will dictate how much milk you need), add the bay leaf and a pinch of salt.
3 Sprinkle the duck breasts liberally with sesame s
