With his monthly edit of the latest cookbook releases, Mark Diacono discovers weekly rotation-worthy vegetarian recipes, learns the benefits of bitterness and appreciates the beauty, diversity and versatility of rice
Recipe I can’t wait to make: Irish apple cake with whiskey sultanas (above).
I didn’t know that… Waterford blaas (delicious soft rolls, let me tell you) have been awarded Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status.
BOOK OF THE MONTH
THE IRISH BAKERY
This beautiful collaboration between photographer Andrew Montgomery and cookery writer Cherie Denham, with essays by Kitty Corrigan, tells the story not of a specific bakery but of bakers, cooks, millers, smokers, growers and other food artisans across the entire island of Ireland. Published through Montgomery’s own imprint, this book has clearly been conceived of as a whole: the photography – landscapes, people, interiors, ingredients and recipes – the design and the words come together beautifully. The writing is intimate and revealing, and the 80-plus recipes are a real joy: among many delights, expect numerous loaves (including soda bread and treacle and linseed bread), buns, biscuits, cakes (hello, Irish cream cheesecake), appealing pies and more that convey the unique nature of Ireland’s baking and cultural heritage.
Montgomery Press £27, out 26 October; photographs by Andrew Montgomery
FLAVOUR
British-Iranian chef and author Sabrina Ghayour’s appeal is in offering simple Persian and Middle Eastern-inspired recipes that burst with flavour. Fans will be pleased to know this new book – her seventh – has that appeal in spades. Recipes include the likes of butterflied lamb with tahini garlic yogurt, Aegean giant couscous salad and cinnamon brioche toast, all without lengthy ingredient lists. As Ghayour says, “Life is too short to eat bland food” – with this book you won’t have to.
Recipe I can’t wait to make: Warm orzo, black-eyed bean and herb salad (below).
I didn’t know that… Massamun (as in massamun curry, a Thai fusion dish thought to have Persian influences) means ‘Muslim’, reflecting its roots.
Aster £26, out 12 October; photographs by Kris Kirkham
REPERTOIRE
Food writer and nutritionist Alice Hart specialises in vegetarian cookbooks filled with recipes of the kind I want to make again and again. Her latest also lives up to that billing – the green lentil and pea dal, mushroom paccheri pasta with browned butter and thyme, and pedro ximénez spiced pears instantly knocked on my door and invited themselves round for supper. As well as being organised handily into suppers, sides and so on, there are seasonal
