The flavour of christmas 2023

14 min read

Mulling spice is packed with warming fragrance from cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg. Sadly, it has a bad rep these days as it’s often used to mask cheap red wine, sold scalding hot for eye-watering prices at Christmas events. We think it’s time mulling spice reclaimed the festive throne it clearly deserves, which is why we’re making it our flavour for Christmas 2023. It has so much to offer beyond warm plonk, working wonders in sweet and savoury dishes, and adding a festive sensory sparkle to everything from meaty stews to sweet syrups. Try these (and enjoy the pictures, cleverly shot over a vat of mulled wine) to see why mulling spices are a must-have in your festive cooking – and beyond!

RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING POLLYANNA COUPLAND AND EMILY GUSSIN PHOTOGRAPHS INDIA WHILEY-MORTON

Mulled fig and apple Christmas cake

Mulled fig and apple Christmas cake

Serves 10-12 Hands-on time 45 min, plus overnight soaking Oven time 2 hours 15 min Specialist kit 20cm round cake tin; paintbrush; star-shaped cutter

A lighter take on the stodge-fest that Christmas cake can sometimes be, this is packed with fruit, adding dried figs and apples to the classic raisins, sultanas and currants. The flavours of mulled cider add a comforting warmth, alongside a good glug of festive booze for feeding.

MAKE AHEAD

Christmas cake always benefits from regular feeds of alcohol over a couple of weeks. This version is ready to eat right away, but making it in advance and feeding the cake with a splash of booze every so often will mature and develop the flavours wonderfully.

The cake won’t last for months like a traditional fruitcake but it will be good for 4 weeks.

Or, if you prefer, wrap the cake well and freeze for up to 3 months, ready to defrost and decorate when needed.

• 350g mixed dried fruit (we used raisins, sultanas and currants)

• 100g dried figs, chopped

• 150ml dry cider

• 200g unsalted butter, softened, plus extra to grease

• 250g self-raising flour

• 2 tsp ground cinnamon

• 1 tsp ground ginger

• 1 tsp ground cloves

• 1 tsp ground allspice

• 200g light brown soft sugar

• 4 medium free-range eggs, lightly beaten

• 50g dried apple slices (sometimes sold as apple rings), halved

• Dark rum, brandy or calvados for feeding

To decorate

• 200g marzipan

• Cornflour to dust

• Edible gold shimmer

• Dash vodka or gin

• 300g roll-out icing or sugarpaste

• Icing sugar to dust

1 Put the mixed dried fruit and figs in

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