Smallholder and former chef Julius Roberts suggests three easy, warming recipes for a winter feast with seasonal produce
PHOTOGRAPHS ELENA HEATHERWICK
Winter is the price you pay for living in the countryside. It is a starkly beautiful season, Mother Nature laid bare for all to see. Still and peaceful, yet wild and ruthless. Sharp heavy frosts blanket the land in a quiet fog broken only by the bones of trees. Unrelenting rain and impenetrable clouds steal the sun for weeks. We work outside, battling penetrating wind with rosy cheeks, dragon breath and fingers so stiff with cold they hurt. The long, quiet nights come with iron skies and haunting moons.
It is a time for self-reflection and hearty cooking. A time for slowing down and taking stock. Inside, the fire is always crackling and the windows shimmer with mist. Boots live by the warmth of the stove, socks hang from the rail above and bums press against oven doors while we chat away in the peaceful kitchen.
The kitchen has always been the heart of our home, where we talk, argue, discuss and deliberate. Home to dogs, sickly chickens, endless washing drying by the stove, goats that need bottle-feeding and wet lambs in need of warmth. Every corner is piled high with books, plants and an ever-growing collection of plates. It’s where I spend my days and nights, pots bubbling away and pans sizzling, leaving behind a trail of mess and destruction that often has me in trouble.
But is there a better way to show your love for someone? The simple act of bringing a pot to the table that you’ve poured your heart into. Bowls passed round, bread torn and buttered. The collective pleasure after that first mouthful and the hum of conversation spurred on by good, simple food. Cooking is what makes us human.
And this is simple home cooking, made from a place of love, not only for the people eating it, but for the land it came from. Quick dishes made in an instant while kid goats climb the kitchen table and nibble at the wallpaper. Steaming bowls of soup and broth brought out to the garden while we dig the veg patch and discover the richness of the soil that feeds us through the year. These are recipes made with muddy fingernails and much to do.
Potato, pancetta and Taleggio galette
SERVES 6
Imagine if dauphinoise and tartiflette had a baby and it arrived in the form of a
