The Michelin-starred chef shares childhood memories and a recipe for his version of a summer classic
My favourite dish
My favourite dish is grilled mackerel, I love mackerel – all oily fish in fact. Marinate it, grill it, serve with salad and you have the most amazing quick lunch. It’s so good for you, too.
I was bought up on home cooking, no lobster or anything like that, it was just good, proper home cooking. As a child, I remember Dad [Albert Roux] grew his own vegetables and had chickens and rabbits that he reared for the table.
Sometimes we’d pop into the kitchen of his restaurant [Le Gavroche in London] after school. Mum would take us there and I’d get a little madeleine as a treat, but sitting down to eat there as a child? No. Dad would not allow that – it was his workplace.
Things have really changed over the years. When my father was running the restaurant, the cheeseboard would maybe have a cheddar or two and stilton, and that was about it. Now we have around 36 cheeses on there and half of them are British-made. It’s incredible that the quality has gone up that much.
My father and uncle must have had to establish supply chains to get things they needed for the restaurant. You couldn’t just walk down to the supermarket and get things you needed. In the ‘60s, olive oil was sold in the chemist to unblock your ears, and garlic was very exotic.
My favourite part of France is Provence in the south. My wife is from that region; it’s such a beautiful part of the world and we have a house in a tiny village – it’s magical. And the food; lots of olive oil, fruit and fish, lovely rosé. I consider myself a Londoner, but I really enjoy it there.
I once had a cooking disaster. I’d invited Dad round for dinner, and I had just installed a new induction stove. I made navarin d’agneau, a slow-cooked lamb stew. I put it on simmer to warm it up. Ten minutes later, the smoke alarm went off. It was burnt to a cinder – I had put it on boost by accident! He never let me forget that. Every time I invited him round, he’d say, ‘I hope it’s not navarin again.’
I love being a mentor to the next generation of chefs. Walking into my kitchen and seeing these youngsters just starting their career in the hospitality industry, to
