Lisa Burn gets the lowdown on the active ingredients in your skincare
WORDS: LISA BURN
Gone are the days when we simply slapped on a bit of cold cream to keep our skin looking good. Now, moisturiser names and ingredients read like a science textbook, full of substances with weird names.
However these substances perform functions that elevate today’s skincare products to a level our mothers could only dream of. Each adds a little magic – hydrating, smoothing, brightening and toning – strengthening the skin barrier, helping us feel more youthful.
Here’s a brief rundown of ingredients you’re most likely to see in your skincare products.
Peptides
Short-chain amino acids which together form proteins, peptides contribute to your body’s production of collagen, elastin and keratin. As collagen production decreases over the years and elastin starts to break down resulting in sagging skin, so including peptides in your skincare routine will help to enhance skin’s firmness and texture.
Ceramides
These are fats naturally produced by our body which support our skin’s structure, but as we age, there are fewer of them, which can result in sensitive, dry and perhaps itchy skin. Ceramides are hydrating and, like hyaluronic acid, they hold moisture within the skin, helping maintain a healthy skin barrier.
When added to skincare they may even encourage more of your own ceramide production and work to smooth fine lines, calm inflamed skin and even out skin texture.
Collagen
This is your skin’s natural support structure. Its fibres hold up your skin, like scaffolding, so it looks firm, smooth and wrinkle-free. As we age, though, we lose collagen. When we go through menopause, in particular, production plummets. The results are fine lines around the mouth and eyes, deeper wrinkles and a sagging neck. Skincare products including collagen can support your body’s production of this protein, adding a little boost – and vegetarians needn’t miss out as collagen can be derived from vegan, as well as animal sources.
Retinol
A form of vitamin A, retinol encourages cell turnover, stimulates collagen production, reduces the appearance of fine lines, firms skin and is good for banishing breakouts. If you have sensitive skin then introduce it gradually into your skincare routine as it can sting. Then build up to daily use.
You can use retinol in the morning as well as at night, but it does leave skin photo-sensitive and open to sun damage, so it’s better to keep
