Oh man!

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The Isle is famed for its motorcycle racing, but Caroline Mills discovers there’s so much more to this jewel in the Irish Sea

1The stunning Meayll Peninsula with the Calf of Man in the distance

The TT – one of the most famous motorcycle races in the world – is probably the main thing most of us know about the Isle of Man, a small island just 27 miles long by 13 wide.

My ignorance was as marked as the exhilarating 200mph speeds encountered by competitors on the open-road TT course. I’d shut my mind to visiting, on the grounds that motorcycle racing is not my thing. I’ve missed out on so much else.

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All points of the compass

On a clear day on the Isle of Man, it’s possible to see Ireland to the west, the Lake District to the east, Scotland to the north and reputedly, Anglesey and Snowdonia to the south.

Yet while influenced by all, the Isle has a very special character, community and landscape. More uplands than I realised, more wooded glens with sparkling streams, more cultural heritage and attractions – and more campsites. And far more extraordinary scenery than I’d imagined. Every reason to step out and explore.

My tour began at Cronk Aashen Farm Campsite near Kirk Michael, my pitch overlooking small, rolling pastures to the west coast two miles off, enabling me to watch the changing light dance over the sea and distant ships. It had snowed in the night and the higher ground of the uplands, behind me, left white patches smoothing out the crevices of the land.

I followed the A4 coast road south. The early morning mist lingered on the rugged hilltops in the island’s centre, while lamb-filled meadows leading to shallow clifftops basked in the winter sunshine. That mist would soon disperse, leaving the entire island simply glowing.

The A4 brings you to Peel, the largest – with a population of 5500 residents – town on the west coast. There’s a great deal of Norse influence here, including Peel Castle, standing on St Patrick’s Isle, an islet attached by a causeway. Boats shelter in the marina, streets of painted cottages hinting at its history as a thriving fishing town.

That maritime history – and the island’s links to the Celts and the Vikings – is showcased in the House of Manannan, through interactive displays that are clearly popular with families.

The Isle of Man might have gained its name as the island of Manannán, a mythical sea god of huge importance to Manx cultural heritage.

Sands and starg

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