Level up your dressmaking with these tips and tricks from our panel of experts
Q I want my new dress to fit me perfectly, what do I need to do?
Zoe Renton May says: Mannequins are wonderful for viewing a garment from all angles, but they only work for a personal fit if they have been customised to your unique body shape, which involves adjusting your dress form to a greater or lesser degree. A perfect match for your body takes a bit of time and effort but it does make all the difference. First, take precise body measurements. Sacrifice a bra that fits well and stuff the cups. Layer 2oz wadding around the body, gradually building the mannequin into a shape that echoes your own. Finish with a layer of stockinette or similar to hold everything in place. I have a fitted T shirt on mine that helps indicate sleeve placement and neckline. Toiles are great as you can make all your adjustments before cutting out your fabric, and you can pin away without being precious. The adjustments can be transferred onto your paper pattern giving you the perfect blueprint for a garment that can be made many times in different fabrics. In the absence of a mannequin; however, work with a dressmaking friend. It can be great fun fitting each other!
Q I’ve got a dress that I love and no longer have the pattern – can I copy it without taking it apart?
Clair Foskett Lorna says: Sometimes we have a favourite dress that fits well and makes us feel great, so being able to make a pattern copy is a handy skill to have. One option is to search for a pattern in a similar style to use or adapt, but if you can’t find anything suitable, you can copy the individual panels, without cutting it up, using a ‘smooth-out-and-draw-around’ approach. Place ‘dot and cross’ or Swedish tracing paper on a large work surface, then lay the back of the dress on top. Use weights or heavy items to hold it in place and smooth out the fabric so that it lies flat on the paper. If it is a soft, flexible fabric, check that the grain of the weave (or knitted direction) is parallel to the edge of the table and any right angles are true. Next, draw around the panel on the seam line, marking pocket or waist positions and the direction of the weave. When you have an accurate outline and have recorded all the important features, remove the dress and add a seam allowance (normally 1.5cm) to all the edges. Repeat this with all the parts of the dress, taking care not to distort the fabric. Treat the sleeve as two halves and draw cuffs, collars and facings separately; add seam a
