FOOD & DRINK AWARDS
Stephen Smith, chef director at The Star Inn at Harome, is our Chef of the Year, sponsored by Total Foodservice
Stephen Smith may have started his career in Lancashire – working with Paul Heathcote at his now closed two-Michelin-star Heathcote’s – but Yorkshire has been where it’s at for the past two decades. The 40-year-old worked at Pool Court in Leeds, alongside Jeff Baker, at a time when the restaurant was the first in the city to be awarded a star.
Stephen has been in charge of the kitchens at the Michelin-starred Star Inn at Harome for more than 15 years, initially as Andrew Pern’s head chef, and now as chef/director, overseeing the talented front of house team as well as it’s food offer. We caught up with him for a chat.
How have things been at The Star Inn since you reopened after the fire?
The closure period allowed us time to reflect and consider how we could make the customer experience even more special and more ‘personal’. Reopening was one of the hardest tasks I have ever faced, but I was lucky to have my loyal team still behind me.
It has also been great fun to see a lot of the familiar faces again, as well as plenty of new ones. We manage our covers differently now to be able to concentrate on our guests and give a real Yorkshire experience with our 10-course tasting menu or a la carte. We also remember to look after our locals offering a weekly changing menu for them.
How did it feel to be back in the kitchen?
I couldn’t wait to get back! I was brimming over with ideas I wanted to put into action and suppliers for us to use. It was daunting to begin with, as we have regular customers who have always come along on the journey with us and we had not seen them for a year. To suddenly reopen with a new menu and new approach made us a little apprehensive.
However, after we had got through the first service, Andrew (Pern) and I felt we had smashed it, cooking food we would want to eat ourselves in the perfect pub!
What is special about The Star?
We always say The Star has six centuries of hospitality infused into its very fabric. From the moment you walk through the door, you feel at home. The place has everything; atmosphere, food, wine and the best staff (of course!). In some respects, time seems to stand still here, and my 15 years here has flown, but I still feel as motivated as when I started.
What do you think about Yorkshire’s food scene?
It has grown and developed massively during the time I have lived here, from the number of small producers and suppliers to the quality of restaurants. Andrew first gained a Michelin star in 2002 and
