London-based food writer Angela Zaher reflects on a sweet memory from her childhood in Beirut – and how it helps tie her family to their cultural heritage today
One from the heart
Maamoul are semolina-based Lebanese date cookies traditionally designed for Easter, when the cookies are shaped into a round with a hole in the middle to represent Jesus’s crown of thorns. They’re made all year round, though, in different shapes, whenever there’s a big celebration or a family reunion. You have to make each one individually by hand, so they’re a labour of love.
Back in Lebanon, my mother would share the work with her friends as there are a few stages – shaping them, moulding them and decorating them – and they’re made in large batches to give to friends and family. Mum’s friends would come to our house for a whole day of making the cookies, and she would go to her friends’ homes when it was their turn to host baking day.
I have such happy memories of watching these ladies gossip as they worked away, methodically and efficiently. I’ve incorporated this tradition into my own family life now, making the maamoul with my two teenage boys. They love getting involved as it’s a bit like working with Play-Doh, and wooden moulds are used to bash out the cookies (their favourite part of the process!). I tell them stories of my childhood as we work and it’s a great way to connect them to their heritage.
Maamoul
Makes About 20 Hands-on time 50 min, plus overnight resting and 1-2 hours rising Oven time 25 min Specialist kit Tweezers; wooden maamoul moulds (available from etsy.com) – both are optional
MAKE AHEAD
You need to start the recipe the night before. You can also make and roll the date filling into balls a day in advance, then store in an airtight container in the fridge.
You can freeze the assembled maamoul – make them to the end of step 5, then freeze. Allow to defrost before baking.
KNOW-HOW
You can buy blocks of puréed, pitted dates from most Middle Eastern grocers, or you can measure out 300g pitted whole dates and use a food processor or blender to whizz them into a purée yourself.
Mahlab (or mahleb) is a spice made from ground cherry seeds, which lends an almond-like flavour to the cookies.
EASY SWAPS
You can replace the rosewater with extra orange blossom water if you prefer.
For the dough
• 300g fine semolina
• 150g unsalted butter, melted
• ¼ tsp salt
• 75g caster sugar
• ¼ tsp ground mahlab or 2-3 drops almond extract
• 25ml rosewater
• 25ml orange blossom water
• 1 tsp fast-action yeast
For the date filling
• 300g pitt
