Chef Yvonne is back with another beloved Chinese ingredient to show us why some things are as much about texture as flavour. Learn how to use them in a steamed chicken dish and in dumplings, both of which were passed down by her “magic mama”
RECIPES YVONNE POON PHOTOGRAPHS INDIA WHILEY-MORTON FOOD STYLING POLLYANNA COUPLAND
Yvonne Poon’s guide to the Chinese pantry PART #2
Dried wood ear mushrooms (also known, not quite as poetically, as black fungus) are large edible fungi widely used in Chinese cooking. While they might look alien in their dried form, as soon as they’re rehydrated they unravel into their distinctive delicate ‘ear’ shape. They’re prized for their crunchy, slippery texture and ability to absorb flavours (which is good since they don’t really taste of much!). The little nooks and crannies in these mushrooms are ideal for catching any sauce they’re mixed with.
This is a classic ingredient often found in healing broths, stir-fries and salads. Mum liked to use them in steamed dishes. At other times they were tucked in dumplings to add texture. She has a huge pantry of dried ingredients and often sprinkled bits and bobs here and there because medicinally ‘they treat your body well’. I used to nod obediently, not knowing exactly how it benefitted me, but I devoured them nonetheless.
My siblings and I were often tasked to start a production line for the dumpings, helping Mum fold hundreds to be stored away in the freezer. To this day, I go to my mum’s house and pick up a bag of her homemade dumplings, as they always have that secret ‘magic mama’s touch’.
Steamed chicken with shiitake and wood ear mushrooms
Serves 4
Hands-on time 10 min, plus
rehydrating
Steaming time 40 min
Specialist kit Large steamer
KNOW-HOWYou can buy wood ear mushrooms from online suppliers such as Sous Chef or Asian supermarkets.
If you happen to have a steam oven, this dish is perfect for it.
• 4 dried shiitake mushrooms
• 10g dried wood ear mushrooms (also known as cloud ear mushrooms or black fungus – see Know-how)
• 500g skinless free-range chicken thigh fillets, chopped into bite-size pieces
• 3 slices peeled ginger, cut
