Busan leading the way

4 min read

Discover Busan’s first Michelin-starred restaurants, an exciting part of the city’s emerging food scene.

Dishes at Palate restaurant, run by chef Kim Jaehoon; Haeundae Beach, Busan’s most famous beach; fresh produce for sale at a market in Nampo-dong
IMAGES: PALATE; ALAMY

South Korea’s most popular seaside city, Busan, is beginning to make a name for itself as a culinary hotspot. This beachside metropolis of 3.5 million people is renowned nationwide for its fresh seafood and signature pork soup, dwaeji gukbap, but now, a new generation of restaurateurs are determined to put the city on the global map as a world-class finedining destination.

The availability of fresh fish and other great local ingredients is key to Busan’s offering. Combine this with talented homegrown chefs and stunning views of either the ocean or the mountains and you have the recipe for some truly exceptional restaurants. What’s more, the city has finally caught the attention of some big players located outside of Korea, including Michelin, which launched a Seoul and Busan guide in 2024, incorporating 43 of Busan’s restaurants, three of which received stars.

This stamp of approval from the exclusive culinary guide has been a welcome gust of wind in the sails for Busan’s up-andcoming chefs, a recognition of the years of hard work and inventiveness necessary to carve out a place among the world’s leading restaurants. For the best taste of the city’s creative culinary offerings, check out the three recipients of Michelin stars in Busan, along with a neighbourhood favourite also recommended by the 2024 guide.

1 PALATE

While chef Kim Jaehoon was born and raised in Busan, it’s in Sydney that he gained his expertise. “I picked this space because it reminds me of Sydney,” he says, motioning towards Gwangan Bridge, the local marina and the shimmering high-rise apartments visible through Palate’s wall of windows. “Life was tough there. I sometimes worked 18 or even 20 hours a day, and the cost of living was unbelievable.”

Palate’s third-floor space is bright and elegant, with just a handful of tables, ensuring each guest receives Kim’s full attention. He often works as host and server, in addition to being the mastermind behind one of Busan’s most groundbreaking restaurants.

Trained in the French tradition, Kim designs his menus with a European sensibility while maintaining a connection to Korea and East Asia. This approach is evident in his Korean white radish pie, chawanmushi (Japanese steamed custard) and cocktails made from traditional mushroom liquor. “I want to share what I’ve experienced and learned through the menu,” he says. “We change things according to the seasons and put a lot of emphasis on using seasonal ingredients depending on the weather and temperature.”

Kim’s creativity