The Perfect Fit
The key to successful fitting is taking accurate body measurements to ensure you get the right size. Pattern sizes aren’t the same as high street clothing sizes, so don’t be tempted to skip this stage. Once you’ve taken your measurements, compare them to those on the pattern envelope or Size It Up panel opposite, then you can make any necessary alterations. Cut out the paper according to the size closest to the measurements you have selected, choosing the best fit (for dresses, blouses and jackets) in the bust and shoulder, as this area is harder to adjust. If your waist or hip measurements are out of proportion according to the standard pattern size, then simply graduate in or out to reach the relevant waist or hip lines to your size.
● Measure yourself in your underwear, preferably in a well-fitting bra you will be wearing often.
● Use a new tape measure as they can distort out of shape over time.
● Ask a friend to helpyou, especially with tricky measurements such as your back-neck to waist and height.
● Be honest with your measurements and remember that pattern sizes are totally different to ready-to-wear high street sizing.
● Use your measurements to help you adjust the pattern to fit your shape, not forgetting to take the required amount of ease into account.
Taking Your Measurements
Measure while in the underwear you will be wearing and hold the tape measure comfortably snug, but avoid pulling tight.
Height Standing against a flat wall without wearing shoes, measure from the floor to the top of your head.
High bust Measure directly under the arms, straight across the back and above the bust.
Full Bust Take the tape measure around the fullest part of your bust and straight across the back.
Waist Tie a length of narrow elastic around the waist and let it settle naturally at your waistline, then measure over it. Keep the elastic handy for future garments.
Hips Measure around the body at the fullest part. This is usually 18-23cm below the waist.
Reading a Pattern
The basic markings you will find on commercial dressmaking patterns are important to familiarise yourself with. These marks indicate various techniques or steps and are best transferred onto your fabric pieces once you’ve cut them.
Size it up
Once you have your body measurements, choose the closest size from the chart below. Remember, there will be variations depending on which fabric and pattern you choose, so always make a toile first.
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