Functional coffee

2 min read

Does it really work?

They’re the buzziest ingredient in wellness. So what happened when one writer swapped her oat flat white for coffee laced with adaptogens?

Form and function
PHOTOGRAPHY: STOCKSY. *SOURCE: NUTRIENTS
THE GUINEA PIG Lauren Clark, 30, freelance journalist

There are few things that bring me quite as much joy as an oat flat white. Yes, I know, what a sad little life I lead. But it’s a familiar constant in an otherwise manic morning. And whether sipped from a seat in a cafe or created from my own kettle, I can count on my daily caffeine shot. But should I? While caffeine isn’t being cancelled exactly, it’s enduring some bruising PR. It’s been linked to an increased likelihood of panic attacks and anxiety, the latter of which I experience quite frequently. Research warns against exceeding 600mg a day, with the repercussions of doing so including sleeplessness, irritability and an upset stomach. While my two-a-day habit comes in under 200mg, I’m ready to re-evaluate my relationship with the stuff. And as if by manifesting magic, the wellness world is brewing up an alternative.

Functional coffee is just like the stuff you know and love, but with the addition of probiotics, CBD or adaptogens. The latter are ‘herbs and mushrooms believed to have particular health benefits’, says Karine Patel, dietitian and founder of Dietitian Fit & Co. These benefits include modulating stress hormones, such as cortisol, as well as having a positive impact on neurotransmitters associated with the synthesis of dopamine, the so-called ‘happy hormone’. Unsurprisingly, the market for coffee with benefits is gathering steam; it’s expected to grow by about £2bn between 2022 and 2026.

While regular coffee also works as a stimulant – fighting fatigue by blocking adenosine receptors, which increases levels of other energyregulating neurotransmitters – this can cause an energy ‘crash’. This is where functional coffee comes in. ‘It’s thought that, in coffee, adaptogens can help your body offset the “stress” caused by caffeine,’ says Patel. Namely, by inhibiting the action of an enzyme involved in caffeine metabolism.

As for the evidence, it’s murkier than weak filter coffee. In a 2020 study* comparing adaptogenic coffee with the regular kind, researchers found that while both drinks improved c

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