Fermentation magic, luscious fruit-laden bakes and pasta to get excited about… Award-winning food writer and cook Mark Diacono chooses the cream of recent cookbook releases
ANDAZA
Scotland-based Sumayya Usmani’s exploration of the food of Pakistan is full of enticing recipes, but this is a memoir, too, about growing up as a woman in Pakistan in the 1980s and 90s, and how cooking helped Sumayya find her place in the world.
Recipe I can’t wait to make: Bitter lemon, mustard seed and garlic pullao.
I didn’t know that... Andaza means ‘estimation’, in the sense of cooking relying on the senses. Murdoch Books £25, out 13 April – look out for exclusive recipes in next month’s issue
OF CABBAGES AND KIMCHI
As a longtime fermenter, I wondered how much James Read’s illustrated book on its joys and benefits might have for me. I’m delighted to say: a great deal. There are adaptable methods for sauerkraut, kombucha, soy and more, plus lively recipes, such as soy caramel dark chocolate tart, that spring from them. A book to inspire confidence in newcomers and engage the converted.
Recipe I can’t wait to make: Kefir pannacotta with mandarin and thyme.
I didn’t know that... In Germany, tinsel is nicknamed ‘silver-plated sauerkraut’.
Particular Books £22
Love is a Pink Cake
Owner of East London’s Violet Bakery, ex-Chez Panisse pastry chef and baker of cakes for royals, Claire Ptak has credentials that are as impressive as this beautiful book. It’s divided to reflect the two sides of her life, with recipes such as black tea poppy seed muffins from her California birthplace, and apricot, chamomile and honey scones from her English home. The book is full of recipes that celebrate the seasons, and Claire introduces you to her favourite growers. There are plenty of tips to build confidence and improve technique, too.
Recipe I can’t wait to make: Pistachio green plum cake with candied violets.
I didn’t know that… Early in his career, Andy Warhol i
